LAMU: Where Time Slows, the Soul Breathes
On Kenya’s northern coast, Lamu invites stillness. A timeless island where boats replace cars, time slows with the tide, and every sound — from the call to prayer to the sea breeze — reminds you to breathe and live simply.
Oct 8, 2025
By Engala Tezita Dereje

Lamu is, to me, a sacred place. I return often because my soul needs it – and each time, I leave feeling renewed. From the moment you land, the island has a way of softening you. Your airport pick-up is not a car but a boat. As the speedboat carries you to your hotel or Airbnb, the wind feels like it’s cleansing you of the city’s noise and weight.
There are no cars in Lamu. Transport is by boat – speedboats and the traditional dhows used for sailing – or by donkeys that carry goods along the narrow alleys of Old Town and Shela. When you arrive at your accommodation, locals greet you with warm smiles and offer help with your bags. They are simple, kind, and genuine. From the first interaction, you feel welcome.
What I love most about Lamu is the rhythm of daily life. People here truly live in the present. Children swim and play for hours. Teenagers gather on the beach for football. Elders sit outside their homes talking as the day passes. Cats wander the alleys, and donkeys walk slowly along the paths. The Islamic call to prayer echoes through the air, reminding you to pause, give thanks, and slow down. Waking up to those sounds in the morning feels peaceful, grounding, and holy.
Lamu is not a place for party seekers. It is a place to rest, to ground yourself, and to let go of the pressure of the outside world. You eat fresh fruit and Swahili dishes that taste of the coast. You swim, walk along the beach, and sail at sunset on dhows that make time feel slower. For me, Lamu is more than a beautiful island – it is a return to balance.

A Living Heritage
Lamu is part of the Lamu Archipelago – a string of islands off Kenya’s far north coast that also includes Manda, Pate, and Kiwayu. Known for its tranquility and natural beauty, the archipelago is also one of the richest centers of Swahili culture.
At the heart of it all is Lamu Old Town – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001 and the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa. Its narrow alleyways, coral stone houses, and carved wooden doors tell stories of centuries of exchange between Africa, Arabia, Persia, India, and Europe. Once a major trading hub, it has been continuously inhabited for over 700 years – a living museum where history and daily life are inseparable. For centuries, Lamu has been a center of Islamic scholarship and religious festivals, making faith and culture inseparable here.

Beyond Lamu: Siyu Fort, Pate Island
The history of the archipelago extends beyond Lamu itself. On nearby Pate Island stands Siyu Fort, built in the 19th century by the local Swahili people. Unlike other forts along the coast, which were often constructed by foreigners, Siyu was a symbol of local strength and resistance to foreign domination. Visiting it offers a glimpse into a less-told but vital part of the region’s story.

Closing – A Circle of Calm
Whether you are watching dhows drift across the water at sunset, tracing the patterns on a centuries-old door, or hearing the call to prayer weave through the alleyways, Lamu grounds you. It slows you down, connects you to the people and place, and reminds you of life’s simplest truths.
For me, it’s more than a destination. It is a place of belonging, a circle of calm, and a reminder of the beauty of living simply.
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