Understanding Inflammation in the Skin: How It Shows Up, and What You Can Do About It

As I was considering what to write for my first article, I knew I had to start from the very beginning. All of my clients know how much I talk about inflammation, and how tackling it can weed out so many skin issues.

Inflammation is a natural defence mechanism — your body’s way of protecting itself from stress, injury, or infection. But when it becomes chronic or poorly managed, it can begin to cause more harm than good, particularly in the skin. From pigmentation to persistent breakouts and sensitivity, underlying inflammation is often the reason the skin struggles to heal or improve.

In the Middle East, the climate plays a huge role in this. Intense sun, heat, dehydration, and lifestyle stressors can all trigger inflammation or make it worse, and it tends to show most around this time of year, when skin is under extra pressure. This is why I believe understanding and managing inflammation is essential before you can truly tackle pigment or texture concerns.

How Inflammation Shows Up

Inflammation isn’t always dramatic or visible. Yes, redness and swelling are clear signs, but low-grade inflammation is much more subtle. Products might start to sting, texture can feel rougher, and pigmentation may deepen or reappear. You may feel like you’re doing all the right things, but progress stays stuck — this is often the missing link.

One of the most stubborn concerns that stems from inflammation is pigmentation, especially post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). This happens when melanin is overproduced in response to trauma or irritation — anything from breakouts to over-exfoliation or sun damage. That pigment can then get trapped in deeper layers of the skin, becoming very difficult to fade. And if inflammation continues, pigment production is constantly triggered from within.

This is why so many people find pigmentation frustrating: they’re using the right products, wearing SPF, even having in-clinic treatments, but if inflammation hasn’t been addressed, the pigment keeps being fed.

The First Step: Rebuild the Barrier

The first step to stopping that cycle is focusing on the skin barrier — the protective outer layer that keeps moisture in and irritants out. When the barrier is healthy, the skin feels soft, calm, and resilient. But when it’s compromised, it becomes reactive, dry, sensitised, and more prone to inflammation and pigment issues.

Simplifying your skincare routine is key. Start by removing anything harsh or overly active. Focus on gentle, nourishing products that support the skin’s ability to repair itself. This is where the pHformula MELA and CR ranges stand out — they combine skin-soothing ingredients like lactobionic acid (a gentle PHA), phytic acid, glutathione, and retinoid derivatives that help calm inflammation, support cell renewal, and reduce pigment formation without triggering irritation. These work alongside kojic acid and arbutin to brighten safely and progressively.

Look Beyond the Surface

It’s also important to consider internal inflammation. Poor gut health, hormonal imbalances, stress, sugar, alcohol, and dehydration all impact the skin — especially in this region where heat and humidity are constant. Supporting your body with hydration, antioxidants, good fats, and rest will all show in your skin.

Only once your skin feels calm and stable should you begin to actively target specific issues. You’ll find treatments are more effective, and results last longer when inflammation is no longer standing in the way.

Final Thoughts

To sum it up: inflammation is often the root cause of stubborn skin concerns, especially in our part of the world. If your pigmentation won’t budge or your skin feels increasingly reactive, take a step back. Focus on rebuilding the barrier, calming inflammation, and restoring balance. With consistency and the right support, clearer, brighter, healthier skin will follow.